So you want to own a wild cat hybrid – what you need to know

Posted on March 31, 2024 by felinepurrspective_u3q4o6

Bengal cats. Courtesy of Colin Whiting, LVT.

Wild cats have coats patterned with stripes, spots and rosettes, that help them blend in with their surroundings. Cat breeders have crossed wildcats with domestic cats, producing “house” cats with these exotic looks. For a hefty price tag, you can own a wildcat hybrid. But before you reserve your “wildcat”, here are things you need to know.

So you want to own a wild cat hybrid – what you need to know

where do hybrid cats come from?

There are a number of wildcats that can produce hybrid offspring when mated with a domestic cat. The most common hybrids are the Bengal and the Savannah. The Bengal comes from a union of an Asian leopard cat with a domestic cat; the Savannah is the product of the African Serval and a domestic cat (Reference 1).

The offspring of different species are not always fertile – when donkeys and horses are bred together, the results are mules, who are sterile. With wildcats, the first generation (F1) males are often sterile but usually there are some fertile females that can be “bred back” with a domestic male cat. Some of these kittens (F2) may also be sterile and “breeding back” continues until fertility is restored at F4-F5 generations. At this point, the cat is about 15% wildcat (Reference 1).

Usually a female domestic cat is bred to a male wildcat. These unions can have their problems: if the wildcats are not accustomed to domestic cats, they may view the female cat as prey and kill her. Differences in size can pose problems: a male serval can weigh upwards of 20 pounds while the average domestic cat is around 10 pounds. Size will make it physically challenging for the cats to mate (Reference 2).

Successful mating has a better chance with a wildcat who has been raised since kittenhood in a house.

The serval’s gestation period is around 74 days compared with a domestic cat’s 65 day pregnancy. As a consequence, the kittens may be born prematurely, requiring use of incubators to keep them alive.

“Production of hybrid cats promotes illegal trade and removal of exotic cats from their natural habitats for breeding purposes.” (Reference 2) This may threaten the survival of endangered wildcats (Reference 3).

Temperament: something to consider when you own a wildcat hybrid

Domestic cats began their association with humans over 10,000 years ago. There are genetic signatures that identify these cats as domesticated. They have adapted over time from a wild state to close association with humans. In that same time, domestic cats have changed from solitary hunters to more social animals that can live in groups when there is sufficient food.

Wildcats and wildcat hybrids are genetically different than our domestic cat. Temperament is in part influenced by genetics, so it is not surprising that hybrid cats can seem skittish and unpredictable to humans, biting and scratching when not expected (Reference 2). Experts particularly discourage ownership of F1, F2, and F3 wildcat hybrids.

Wildcat hybrids can be more territorial than domestic cats and exhibit behaviors such as urine spraying and aggression toward other pets in the human household (Reference 2).

care and feeding of a wildcat hybrid

Hybrid cats are obligate carnivores like our domestic cats and can be fed a complete and balanced diet of commercial cat food. They may need more calories than the average house cat depending on their size.

Environmental needs are similar to those of our everyday cat although hybrid wildcats can be more active and may need a bit more positive and predictable interaction with people. Leash walking and agility training may be things to consider when you own a wildcat hybrid. Providing a catio can also provide enrichment when you own a wildcat hybrid.

Like any other cat, veterinary care is essential to a long and happy life for hybrid cats. They will need annual exams, vaccinations, and dental care to remain healthy.

The period during which the rabies virus is shed is not known for wild cats so rabies vaccines formulated for a our domestic breeds may not have the same efficacy for hybrids. However, hybrid cats should still receive rabies vaccines (Reference 2).

legal concerns when you own a wildcat hybrid

The locality where you live may require that you have a permit or license to own a wildcat hybrid (Reference 2).

In Australia and New Zealand, there are complete bans on hybrid cats that are not at least 5 generations removed from a wild ancestor.
The United Kingdom requires permits for cats with a wild parent.
Norway and Sweden prohibit cats less than 5 generations removed from a wild ancestor.
In the United States, laws vary from state to state: Nebraska, Georgia, Hawaii and Rhode Island are the most restrictive.

If your hybrid cat bites a human, local laws may require the cat be euthanized even if vaccinated in order for brain tissue to be evaluated for rabies (Reference 2). In comparison, domestic cats can be quarantined and observed. CHECK YOUR LOCAL LAWS.

When buying a hybrid cat, be aware that a visual exam cannot determine whether a cat is truly an expensive hybrid or a domestic cat with a similar coat color and conformation. To determine authenticity, the breeder should be able to provide a DNA-verified pedigree extending back to the exotic cat foundation (Reference 2).

let the buyer beware…

Hybrid cats are not suitable for the average or first time pet owner.

They are difficult to breed and costly.
Hybridization may constitute a threat to endangered wildcat populations.
These cats can be very active, may seem skittish and unpredictable, and not make good pets.
Some localities may ban early generations of hybrids; some may require licenses and permits.

The Internet abounds with both horror stories and success stories about wildcat hybrids. Owning a hybrid cat requires an significant investment of not only money, but also time. Like any other cat, exposure to a variety of humans, other pets and household situations when young helps make a good pet. Also, training your hybrid kitten or cat will give him/her a way to communicate with you, accustom him/her to gentle and respectful handling, and strengthen the bond between you and your cat.

An Afterword:
Breeders bred the Asian leopard cat to domestic cats to achieve the distinctive coat of the Bengal cat. In March of 2024, Stanford researchers published a study with the results of 10 years of sequencing the DNA of Bengal cats. They found that the unique appearance of Bengals was a result of variations in genes that had already been present in domestic cats – the beautiful coat of the Bengal cat is NOT due to his Leopard Cat ancestry (Reference 4).

references

William Murphy, PhD. Genetic Analysis of Feline Interspecies Hybrids, Tufts’ Canine and Feline Breeding and Genetics Conference, 2015
Department of Veterinary Integrative Biosciences, Texas A&M University, College Station, TX, USA https://www.vin.com/apputil/content/defaultadv1.aspx?id=6976361&pid=12513& (viewed 3/2024).
Ownership of non-domestic felids. J Feline Med Surg. 2019 Jul;21(7):NP3. doi: 10.1177/1098612X19857520. PMID: 31234747.
Devitt, Elizabeth. Mating Game: Survival of Some Small Wildcats At Risk Due to Housecat Hybrids, Mongabay, 5/25/23, https://med.stanford.edu/news/all-news/2024/03/bengal-cats.html (viewed 3/2024).
Williams, Sarah. Bengal Cat Coats Are Less Wild Than They Look, Genetic Study Finds. Stanford Medicine/New Center/ March 2024. https://med.stanford.edu/news/all-news/2024/03/bengal-cats.html (viewed 3/2024).

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Moving with your cat

Posted on March 16, 2024March 16, 2024 by felinepurrspective_u3q4o6

“Moving with Your Cat” was originally published 9-26-21. This newer version has been updated and contains additional information.

Moving to a new home is stressful even when everything goes right! Imagine how confusing moving is to our cats – the boxes are fun when empty but soon they fill up with things and your cat can no longer jump in.

From the Feline Purrspective…

The bed you used to siesta on gets bagged up and taken away by strange humans. Your world seems to be coming to an end. Will you have enough to eat? Will you be safe from predators? Where can you hide?

Cats are territorial animals. An outdoor cat’s home range is the maximum area he roams and hunts in. Within the home range is a smaller area that the cat will actively defend – his territory. Inside this defended area is a smaller area called the “core territory”, where the cat can rest, has shelter, and feels safe from predators and other cats. Moving with your cat removes him from his core territory – the house or apartment he lives in.

How can we communicate safety and security to our cats when we move? Somehow, we cat owners have to provide what our cats need even though we are no longer “at home”.

What our cats need:

Resources : food, water, litter box, shelter
Safe access to resources
Belonging: territory
Human interaction: predictable
Playtime: predatory behavior

Moving with Your Cat

Getting ready

Resources: Stock up on your cat’s preferred litter and food – if you are traveling by air, perhaps you can ship some of this to your new address.
Safe access to resources: Create a “safe place” for your cat. When moving with your cat, this will most likely be her carrier. Make sure your cat is comfortable in her “home away from home”. In the weeks leading up to the move, leave it out for her to explore and nap in. Consider feeding her meals in it.
Set up a “mobile” territory: A lot of cat communication is by smell. Cats have some of the best noses -with 30 genetic variants of the V1R receptor protein in their vomeronasal organs, they are able to discriminate between a wide variety of smells (Reference 1). So, avoid laundering cat blankets or quilts that your cat sleeps on – the familiar scent of home can help reassure your cat of his territory when he is on the move.
Predictable, positive human interaction: Try to maintain daily feeding and grooming routines as you travel.
Predatory play: Don’t forget play time – try to set some time aside to play with your cat when traveling.

Other things to consider when moving with your cat:

Is your cat microchipped in case he escapes?
Consider a calming supplement such as Zylkene, Calming Care. It is best if you start these several weeks before moving.
Have copies of your cat’s medical records. Locate a cat-friendly practice in the new neighborhood.
Do you need a health certificate for travel?
Consider getting your cat accustomed to wearing a harness and leash. Even if not fully leashed trained, a harnessed cat can be more easily handled in an airport or at a rest stop if you have to change out soiled pads in the carrier.
Consider asking your vet for calming medication for travel.
Multi-cat homes: Identify the social groups in your home before moving. This can help you when introducing your cats to their new territory.

moving day

Although some cats travel well together, it is usually a good idea to have separate carriers for each cat in case some random event frightens one of the cats, resulting in a cat fight.

You may want to keep your cat(s) in their own room with their carriers while furniture, etc is being moved – you don’t want them to escape!

Arriving at your new home…

Establish a “safe place” for each cat or social group: Choose a room with a door you can close, that does not have places where your cat can hide (under the bed, behind a bookcase) and you can’t get him. Use one of your smaller moving boxes as a hiding space – put a comfy bed or blanket in this box.
The “safe” room should contain all your cat’s essential resources – food, litter box, water, scratching post.
Use pheromone diffusers in the “safe place”. You may also want to have them throughout the new house or apartment.
A gradual introduction to the new house is best for most cats. Pay attention to your cat’s body language – if she seems scared or frightened, allow her to stay in the “safe room”. Once she seems curious about the world outside her safe place, allow her to explore the rest of the house – you may want to accompany her (a harness/leash can be handy) on her first forays into the new space.
Maintain feeding and play/grooming routines as best as you can.

In a multi-cat homes, you may want to use a protocol similar to introducing cats. Assess how the different social groups are adjusting before allowing free access to everything. A move can disrupt the social order, giving a dominant cat an opportunity to pick on a more timid cat.

Moving with your cat is an adventure…

When your cat arrives at his or her new home, he/she must establish a “new” territory. We can facilitate this process by:

ensuring that your cat has familiar items with her – the food and litter she is accustomed to, beds/blankets that have her scent on them, and a carrier she is comfortable in
allowing him to establish a new “core” territory first in a “safe” room
allowing her to choose when she is ready to leave her “safe” place to explore the rest of the house.

Moving is stressful for us and for our cats. Make sure to monitor your cat(s) for sickness behaviors. Reduced appetite, vomiting, or diarrhea can be signs of stress-related issues. Consult a veterinarian if these problems don’t resolve in a day or two or if your cat does not eat for more than 24-48 hours.

references

Kristyn R. Vitale Shreve, Monique A.R. Udell, Stress, security, and scent: The influence of chemical signals on the social lives of domestic cats and implications for applied settings, Applied Animal Behaviour Science, Volume 187, 2017, pp. 69-76, ISSN 0168-1591, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.applanim.2016.11.011

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Managing the Painful Cat: Recognizing pain and Giving Care

Posted on March 10, 2024March 10, 2024 by felinepurrspective_u3q4o6

Pain is a response to injury and illness. It motivates an animal to protect the wounded part of the body or to slow down to allow the immune system to work. But at a certain point, pain may not be functional – for example, if an animal is too painful to eat. Managing the painful cat must reduce pain without inducing dysphoria – a state of unease and dissatisfaction (Meriam-Webster).

Cats are not only predators, they are also prey for larger carnivores like coyotes. A predator will target a weak or injured prey animal so it is important that prey animals hide their pain, so they don’t become some else’s snack. How do we recognize pain in a cat? How do we manage the painful cat?

Managing the Painful Cat

Managing the painful cat requires that:

We recognize the pain and its severity.
The veterinary team formulates a treatment plan, which includes pain medications and supportive treatments.
The cat owner implements the plan, monitoring the cat’s pain and response to treatment.

Pain can divided into “acute” pain and “chronic” pain.

Acute pain (Reference 1):

rapid onset
short duration (3 months or less)

“Chronic” pain (Reference 1)

occurs along with a chronic health condition
longer duration

We will focus on “acute” pain in this article.

Some causes of “acute” pain are:

surgeries: spay, neuter, dental extractions
illness such as pancreatitis, infections
bite wounds from a cat fight

How do you know if your cat is in pain?

Changes in behavior, posture, and temperament may be indicators of pain or illness. Some examples are:

Changes in behavior

decreased appetite
decreased grooming
urinating or defecating outside the litter box
sleeping in unusual places

Changes in posture

hunched or crouching
changes in gait: walking stiffly, limping

Changes in Temperament

a typically friendly cat does not greet you and hides under the bed
the cat is aggressive toward people or other animals

If you notice such changes, a visit to your vet is in order. Your vet may prescribe therapeutic and pain medication, suggest environmental changes and other supporting therapies such as warm or cold compresses. During the treatment and recovery period, it is important to monitor your cat and note her response to therapy:

behavioral changes: is there improvement
pain assessment

The Feline Grimace Scale (FGS) provides cat owners with a way of assessing acute pain. The FGS focuses on 5 features of the cat’s face: position of the ears, shape of the eyes, shape of the muzzle, attitude of the whiskers, and position of the head. The user assigns each feature a score of 0 (no pain), 1 (moderate pain), or 2 (obvious pain) for a maximum of 10 points. A score of 4 indicates that the cat is painful. To use the FGS, see https://www.felinegrimacescale.com/

Effective pain management enhances healing and will help the cat return to its daily activities faster. Be sure to give medication as directed by your veterinarian. If you have difficulties administering medication or following other instructions, contact the vet clinic immediately for alternative ways of giving medication or other methods of providing supporting therapy. If you feel your cat is in pain in spite of the prescribed treatments, contact your veterinary team – perhaps another medication or therapy will be more effective.

“ It is reasonable to assume that anything that would cause us pain, will also cause pain in cats
and be just as distressing for them” (Reference 2)

Managing the painful cat not only involves giving prescribed medication and treatments in a timely way, it also includes keeping the patient physically comfortable. Environmental modifications can help the painful cat return to the comfort of his daily routine.

Environmental Modifications to Help the Painful Cat Recover (Reference 2)

Restrict outdoor access and activity as directed by your vet
Provide options for quiet rest, ensuring the bed is in easy reach
Essential resources – food, water, litter box and bed – must be close by. The recovering cat may not want to move very far.
Encourage your cat to eat by offering palatable foods and warming them when appropriate, per your veterinarian’s instructions.
Keep other pets and children away if they are likely to disturb the cat or, for example, disturb a bandage.

managing the painful cat: A Case History

In the autumn of 2021, I was taking my cat Gus on short hikes on a nearby mountain trail. One hike, he startled, I lost hold of the leash and he disappeared up the trail. After 2 hours of walking up and down the trail, calling for him, he appeared, without harness and leash, moving stiffly. I carefully put him in his backpack and took him to the vet clinic for an exam and x-rays.

The exam indicated that he had a lot of inflammation in his lumbar spine and was reactive to palpation of that area. X-rays did not show any injury to his skeleton.

We tried NSAID therapy, oral opioids and gabapentin, but there was little improvement in 3 days. Gus was so painful that he would growl when changing positions.

The next visit was to the neurologist in Denver for an MRI which showed inflammation but no obvious nerve damage. We added a steroid to his therapy; I also gave him twice daily red light therapy. Gus began to improve and recovered fully after 6 weeks.

environmental modifications

Gus was set up in the master bath with the doors closed to keep other cats from entering
A litter box with a low entrance was provided
A bed made of blankets was placed on the floor
A bowl of water was next to the bed

giving medications

A decreased appetite precluded Gus voluntarily taking a pain medication in a treat
Medication was administered using a squeeze up treat (see “How to Give Your Cat a Bitter Pill“)

the efficacy of pain medication and an environment conducive to healing

Although the “tincture of time” was an important factor in Gus’s recovery, alleviating pain and discomfort accelerated healing. The addition of prednisolone (a steroid) to the therapy helped reduce swelling in Gus’s spine – he began to move about more easily the day following his first prednisolone dose. The steroid also stimulated his appetite and having a bed on the floor with easily accessed litter box nearby encouraged elimination.

In the weeks that followed the hiking accident, Gus gained mobility although steps to access high places were still needed. At first, Gus was not able to hold his tail up but he recovered fully in the weeks that followed.

Managing the painful cat requires recognition of pain and a treatment plan from the veterinarian. After that point, the cat’s care is in the hands of his owner who must monitor him for pain, ensure that he eats and eliminates, and provide him with an environment conducive to healing.

references

Steagall PV, Robertson S, Simon B, Warne LN, Shilo-Benjamini Y, Taylor S. 2022 ISFM Consensus Guidelines on the Management of Acute Pain in Cats. Journal of Feline Medicine and Surgery. 2022;24(1):4-30. doi:10.1177/1098612X211066268
Recognising and Managing Acute Pain in Cats:Information for Owners/Caregivers. https://icatcare.org/app/uploads/2022/02/Cat-Carer-Guide_Acute-pain.pdf viewed 3/2024

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The Final Goodbye – When to Put Your Cat to Sleep

Posted on March 3, 2024 by felinepurrspective_u3q4o6

Saying the final good bye to your cat is never easy. Medical care for cats has progressed by leaps and bounds in the past few decades and it is not uncommon for cats to live to be 19 or 20 years old. As age takes its toll and the older cat’s mind and body declines, many cat owners hope that their old friend will slip away in her sleep. Unfortunately, this does not happen often and we need to decide if it is time for euthanasia.

The word “euthanasia” comes from the Greek: “eu” or well, and thanatos, “death”, i.e. – the good death. A “good death” is the last gift we can give our cats.

The decision to put your cat to sleep is not made lightly.

The cost of medical care may be out of your reach financially and you elect euthanasia rather than have your cat suffer untreated.
You may have done all the medical treatments possible and your cat is just not responding. You must say goodbye.

But, what about the cat that clings to survival but is dwindling, still eating but not thriving? When do you say goodbye?

when to say goodbye and put your cat to sleep

In the case of the cat with the “dwindles”, it helps to make a list of what your cat does during her day. Keep an eye on these behaviors and watch for signs of apathy or disinterest.

It can be helpful to keep a calendar of your cat’s daily behavior or events (such as illness or playfulness). Each day can be evaluated as “good”, “bad” or “average”. When the “bad” days outnumber the “good” ones, it may be time to put your cat to sleep. Your veterinarian can help you with assessing your cat’s quality of life.

Last week I said goodbye to Marley, one of “The Feline Purrspective” team. Marley was a gentle, extremely sociable cat who enjoyed head rubs and treats. He was friendly with people and fairly tolerant of other cats. His health was generally good until he was about 16 years old. He will be sorely missed.

Marley’s timeline is summarized in the table below. I have highlighted the concerns that contributed to the decision to euthanize.

AGE	TIMELINE OF LIFE EVENTS
3-14 years	I adopt Marley from the veterinary technician school I attended. Marley is introduced to my 3 cats and becomes part of my household. He learns to go on morning walks and participate in the evening treat and playtime. He becomes quite adept at food puzzles. His health is good although he does seem to lose teeth at his annual dental cleanings.
14-16 years	Marley has two instances of malignant tumors on the bottom side of his tongue, which were successfully removed. His health and demeanor remain good overall: he still goes on daily walks and participates in evening treat and play time.
16-17 years	Marley’s vision and hearing begin to deteriorate. He starts to show signs of Cognitive Dysfunction Syndrome (CDS) and starts a Sam-E supplement. He stops going outside with the other cats on walks. He is still chasing treats at night but does not play with toys.
17-18 years	September, 2023: a firm, fibrous mass is found in front of Marley’s left ear. I decline surgery due to Marley’s progressing CDS. Marley is becoming less active and seems fearful of the other cats at times. He still comes for treats most nights.
18+ years	Marley turns 18 years in early February 2024 The tumor on his head has increased in size and his left eye is starting to close and squint. He spends most of his time in a heated basket, leaving only to use the litter box or to eat. He is no longer grooming himself and has stopped coming for treats at night.

Looking at the highlighted sections in the table above, you can see that going for walks outdoors and the evening treat/play time were key activities in Marley’s daily life. By the time he is 16-17 years old, he has stopped taking the daily walk but still participates in the nightly treat time. In the next year, he stops this activity.

These behaviors defined who Marley was and were indicators of his will to live. In the final months of his life, he lost this will to live. It was time to say goodbye.

the final goodbye

On February 24, 2024, I said a final goodbye to Marley. I gave him some gabapentin before taking him to the clinic for euthanasia. He passed quickly and peacefully in his basket – he was gone before finishing his favorite treat and before all the euthanasia solution was injected.

The decision to euthanize Marley was based not only on the progression of his medical condition, but also on the changes in his behavior. I feel he was not in pain but his life was no longer worth living. From a friendly, outgoing cat, he had become a reclusive, confused creature, going through the motions of surviving. I don’t feel that his last years were mismanaged but I do feel it may have been kinder to let him go a few months earlier.

I have shared my experience in the hopes that it can help other cat owners who are wrestling with this very difficult question: when to put your cat to sleep. I found it helpful to pay attention to Marley’s daily activities, and note how often he participated in them and when he just stopped doing them. Tracking these key behaviors can give you, the cat owner, an idea of your cat’s mental state: is he is still engaged in life or just going through the motions? If he is just going through the motions, is it time to say goodbye?

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