Moving can be hectic and stressful for both people and pets. When you move your cat, he is uprooted from his territory, a place where he feels safe and secure – where he can rest, has shelter, and is safe from predators. What do you need to consider when unloading the boxes and positioning the furniture?
Setting up a cat-friendly home can help reduce the stress of the move and help your cat quickly establish her new territory.
Environment that respects the cat’s sense of smell: territory
Human interaction: predictable
Predatory behavior
If we organize these needs in a pyramid diagram, the lowest tier includes those needs essential to survival: food, water, and litter boxes.
The next level ensures that these essential resources are available to each cat to use safely, without fear. We cat owners must provide multiple, separate feeding and watering stations and litter boxes.
Another of the AAFP requirements is that the environment respects the cat’s sense of smell. Such an environment is the cat’s territory. Cats will mark walls and furniture in the home with scents from glands in their faces and mark scratching posts with scents released when scratching. Your cat belongs to his territory.
The final two tiers deal with how we interact with our cats and…
Offering them an opportunity to exercise their hunting skills.
The first three tiers are ones that are physically affected by moving from one place to another.
Where do you locate litter boxes and feeding stations in your new home?
Where can you locate safe places for your cat to chill, nap and keep on an eye on the household?
How do you help your cat establish a territory and maintain the scent profile of the home?
I have recently moved from my townhome of 13 years into a 2 story, unattached house. Placing cat resources is a work still in progress – here is my “first cut”. Join me and take a look at the placement of my cats’ resources and the pros and cons of my choices. I hope you enjoy The Purrade of My Home!
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Feeling “gutsy”? “Butterflies” in your stomach? These are the signs that your brain and your gut are communicating with each other. There is constant “crosstalk” between these two organs.
The tiny microbes that call the gut their home form a community or “microbiome”. Some of the ways this microbiome communicates with the brain are:
Millions of neurons line the GI tract and signal the brain of changes in the microbiome.
If the brain triggers the release of fight or flight hormones, the movement of the intestines and the content in them changes.
The GI microbiome affects the development of neural systems that control stress.
Gut microbes can affect immune cells in the GI tract. These changes are picked up the neurons in the walls of the GI tract.
Gut microbes produce short chain fatty acids and neurotransmitters that directly affect the brain.
Our cats are also mammals with a similar gut-brain communication. Imbalances in your cat’s GI microbiome can result not only in diarrhea but also can affect mood, anxiety, and conditions such as dermatitis and inflammatory bowel disease (IBD).
How and what we FEED our cats affects the microbiomes in their guts. As we learn more about how the gut talks to the brain, we are finding specific ways to influence these microbiomes through diet. This gives cat owners a low-stress way of managing their cats’ health by feeding them.
probiotics for cats
A microbe is microorganism, usually a bacterium, that causes disease or fermentation. We can influence the GI microbiome through prebiotics, probiotics and synbiotics.
Prebioticsrefer to indigestible fiber that feeds the “good” (beneficial) bacteria in the GI tract.
Probioticsare live bacteria or yeast that are beneficial to the health of the host – human, cat, dog… – who consumes them.
Synbiotics refer to the combination of pre- and probiotics – fiber and bacteria/yeast.
The bacteria/yeast can be freeze-dried and packaged as a supplement. The bacteria remain in a “dormant” state until they are exposed to the right conditions of acidity, temperature and water and become active and “live” once more.
DIETARY SUPPLEMENTS FOR YOUR CAT’S GI MICROBIOME
Some of the more common probiotics for cats include Fortiflora and Proviable.
Fortiflora is manufactured by Nestlé-Purina. The supplement contains the bacterium E. faecium SF68 and has been shown to reduce viral and antibiotic-induced diarrhea in cats. A newer version of this supplement, Fortiflora SA, includes the prebiotic psyllium, resulting in an improved resolution of diarrhea. Fortiflora has also been studied with regard to reducing side effects from feline herpes virus. Fortiflora is available over the counter; Fortiflora SA is available through your veterinarian.
Nutramax Proviable is another powdered synbiotic for cats found to be effective in resolving feline diarrhea . Proviable contains seven strains of bacteria: E faecium,
Streptococcus (Enterococcus) thermophilus, Lactobacillus acidophilus, L bulgaricus, L casei, Bifidobacterium bifidum, and L plantarum. Proviable is available over the counter.
Another probiotic on the market features the bacterium Bifidobacterium longum, that has been shown to help cats and dogs stay calm. Calming Care is a Purina product available over the counter.
a diet to maintain your cat’s gi biome
Hill’s Pet Nutrition has developed a canned and dry diet for cats designed to maintain a healthy gastrointestinal microbiome. The food incorporates a blend of prebiotics designed to encourage the growth of “good” bacteria in your cat’s intestines.
Research on cats at the Hills Pet Nutrition Center showed that feeding the “biome” diet increased the “good” bacteria and post-biotics – those short chain fatty acids (SCFA) from fiber fermentation. SCFA are thought to regulate processes in the Central Nervous System and ultimately shape behavior and cognitive function.
MORE ABOUT probiotics for cats
A company called Animal Biome offers to tailor the use of probiotics to the individual cat or dog. The company cites problems with the “one size fits all” approach using probiotics to manage the microbiomes. The composition of the your pet’s microbiome is identified using DNA sequencing. Supplement therapies are available to restore your cat’s microbiome balance.
Other companies offering similar services include Nom Nom and MIDOG.
Probiotics provide us with additional ways to manage not only GI upset but possibly anxiety, skin issues and IBD in our cats. More research should identify additional probiotics for cats that target specific conditions.
SHOULD I USE PROBIOTICS/SYNBIOTICS FOR MY CAT?
For an occasional bout of diarrhea, a probiotic such as Proviable or Fortiflora can be effective. If the diarrhea persists or recurs, see your vet.
Prebiotics, probiotics, and synbiotics are dietary supplements and, as such, are not regulated by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA). Many dietary supplements claim to treat medical conditions and are basically unapproved drugs.
a word to the wise…
Stick with the supplements that have some clinical studies supporting their use. The supplements mentioned in this post are used in many veterinary clinics, have substantial amount of research supporting their development, and are safe to use with your cat.
postscript…
I am moving into a new home and I am concerned about how the process of moving will affect The Feline Purrspective team. As things are getting boxed up, some of my cats were more clingy; my ex-feral cat seemed edgy and paced more. I decided to give the Calming Care supplement a try. So far, the kitties do seem calmer after about a week on the supplement, although, maybe they are just getting used to the moving boxes!
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Did you know that about 1 in 3 people in the United States are allergic to cats and dogs? Those of us who are mildly “allergic” are familiar with the sneezing and runny nose that may come with handling our pets. More severe reactions may include signs of asthma, such as wheezing and difficulty breathing.
What makes us allergic to cats?
A protein called Fel d1 is the primary allergen in cats, accounting for about 95% of the allergy responses in adults sensitive to cats. Fel d1 is mainly produced in the cat’s salivary and sebaceous glands and is spread through the cat’s fur as he grooms. As he sheds fur and skin (dander), Fel d1 is distributed throughout your home. Breathing in dander or having contact with it can trigger an allergic reaction in a sensitive person.
Fel d1 is light, easily airborne and can be found just about everywhere, even in pet-free homes and institutions such as schools. Usually these levels are low and do not impact people in general.
Reducing Fel d1 in your home
Being allergic to cats does not always mean you have to re-home your feline friend. What you need to do is reduce the amount of Fel d1 in your home. Here are some things you can do:
Fur tends to “stick” more to fabrics – vacuum upholstery and carpets frequently.
Consider switching out carpet for hardwood or vinyl floors.
Use covers that you can launder on sofas and upholstered chairs.
HEPA air filters and HEPA vacuum filters can also help.
Clean regularly and frequently.
Open the windows when you can.
What about bathing my cat?
Bathing your cat does reduce the amount of Fel d1. Researchers do not agree on how long the beneficial effects last – one study found that washing cats significantly reduced the airborne amount of allergen but the levels of Fel d1 returned to pre-wash levels within the week. Many cats do not like to be bathed – a weekly bath may become a weekly battle.
Purina has developed a waterless shampoo for reducing Fel d1 which does not require immersing the cat in a tub or hosing her down. This may be easier to use if you want to try bathing your cat. The shampoo is said to reduce allergens 33% in 24 hours .
Chickens and Eggs – can they keep us from being allergic to cats?
Chickens produce antibodies against environmental antigens that they can transfer into their eggs and give their chicks immunity against these antigens. Researchers at Nestle-Purina were able to develop an “anti-Fel d1” antibody by exposing hens to Fel d1. This “ anti-Fel d1” reduces the amount of active Fel d1 in the cat’s saliva when the cat eats food containing the “anti- Fel d1” egg product. Purina “Live Clear” is now commercially available after 10 years of research and studies. It has been shown to reduce active Fel d1 by an average of 47% after 3 weeks of feeding.
“Hypoallergenic” cats
All cats produce Fel d1 – some produce more than others. Intact male cats produce more Fel d1 than female cats and neutered and spayed cats. Older cats may produce less Fel d1 than younger ones.
Some cat breeds are known for not producing much Fel d1. These cats typically do not shed much. It is thought that the reduction in the amount of hair reduces the amount of Fel d1 in the environment. On the other hand, these cats still groom and spread dander that has sebaceous secretions containing Fel d1. Among breeds thought to produce less Fel d1 are:
Sphynx
Cornish and Devon Rex
Siberian cats (may have a genetic mutation that causes them to release less Fel d1)
Russian blue
Balinese
Peterbald
A doll based on a Sphynx cat!
What does the future hold for those of us who are allergic to cats?
The Crisper Cat: A Virginia based company, Indoor Biotechnologies, is looking into removing the Fel d1 gene from cat cells in order to develop a truly “hypoallergenic” cat.
A Vaccine to Make Cats less Allergenic: Saiba Animal Health is developing a vaccine for cats that will induce “anti-Fel d1” antibodies to form in vaccinated cats. These antibodies will bind Fel d1 and will effectively neutralize its allergenic effect on humans.
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A cat is examined in a familiar place – the bottom of her carrier.
The other day a client brought her cat in for an exam and vaccines. This cat had been previously seen at the clinic and had been aggressive toward the veterinary staff and the owner. She had been prescribed gabapentin to reduce anxiety when coming in for vet visits. Gabapentin is bitter, so some cats will not eat it in food and may need to be given the pill.
The owner was unable to get her cat to eat the powder in food and brought the cat in unmedicated. This cat was in a soft carrier and was striking with her front paws at the carrier sides when approached. When cats are in a negative emotional state as was this cat, the two ways available to the veterinary professional to try change the emotional state are food and play. This cat was having neither.
A dilemma – proceed with the visit?
the veterinary staff
If we move forward, glove up and use thick towels, we can immobilize the cat and perhaps administer vaccines. Being in the soft carrier, she would be difficult to get out, but we could give the vaccine through the mesh sides, although there would be the risk if she wiggled loose a vaccine intended to go under the skin could end up in the muscle.
the cat’s point of view
When presented with a threatening scenario, a cat has three options: 1) flight 2) fight 3) freeze (learned helplessness).
The cat in question was in a carrier in an exam room so flight was out of the question. She decided to fight, which she was ready to do, striking at the carrier sides when the owner or veterinary staff approached.
Imagine being snugly enveloped by towels, you can’t see what’s going on nor can you move. Some cats will continue to thrash, kick, and bite; other cats will give up at some point. The exam may be very brief, perhaps just measuring the heart rate through the towel. Whether the cat continues to fight or gives up, the experience is negative. If the cat perceives that fighting is successful – after all, she goes home after the struggle – she may fight even harder on the next visit. The cat will stick with a strategy she thinks works.
the stress of the vet visit
So many owners are stressed about how their cat is treated at the vet clinic, they try to avoid bringing the cat in until it is absolutely necessary. Sometimes, to the cat’s detriment, health conditions have worsened by the time the cat receives medical care.
owner’s stress
The cat hides under the bed when the carrier comes out.
The cat has to be “dragged” out from under the bed.
The cat does not want to go into the carrier.
The cat cries constantly on the way to the vet.
The owner anticipates that the cat will be difficult and sedation will increase the cost of the visit.
the cat’s stress
You are placed in a box that you associate with fear and anxiety.
Your box (with you in it!) is placed in a larger box that moves and smells funny.
You are frightened, may be nauseated, or may soil yourself.
The vet clinic smells of other frightened animals.
You are handled by strange humans.
Each time “heavy restraint” is used, a cat often becomes increasingly aggressive, until the exam and treatments have to be done under anesthesia.
Give the cat as much choice and control as possible.
Pay attention to the cat’s body language and tailor the handling to the individual cat.
Touch the cat where he prefers to be touched.
Positive Reinforement: Make unpleasant procedures (vaccines, sample collection) worthwhile to the cat, offering food or head rubs.
Low Stress vet visits require that the veterinary staff and cat owner work together as a team. Cat friendly handling begins at home and continues when the cat and owner arrive at the vet clinic.
Train your cat to comfortable in her carrier. Consider a carrier with a removable lid so that she can at least be examined in the safety of her “home away from home”.
Desensitize your cat to riding in the car – take a drive around the block where you don’t end up at the vet.
If your cat has a favorite treat or food that he likes, consider picking up his food the night before for a morning appointment or in the morning for an afternoon appointment. Bring the treats along and offer them to the staff to feed kitty during his exam or procedures.
Choose a Cat Friendly Practice where the staff have had some training in cat friendly handling.
What happened with the cat we talked about earlier?
The owner felt that a cat-only practice made her cat more reactive. We elected not to proceed with the exam and suggested the owner find a clinic that was a better fit. We can only hope that the cycle of aggression will be broken.
Like taking a toddler to the doctor, the vet visit can be scary for your cat. Cat friendly handling can make the visit less stressful for both you and your cat!
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Cats are not only predators, they are also prey for larger carnivores like coyotes. A predator will target a weak or injured prey animal so it is important that prey animals hide their pain, so they don’t become some else’s snack. Cats are no exception and are masters at hiding pain. As a veterinary technician, I have found clients often do not give pain medication that we send home because “he didn’t seem painful”.
how do I know if my cat is painful?
It is hard to assess pain in animals and young children. They can’t tell you how it hurts. There has been interest in developing methodology for computer assessment of pain in human children using facial expressions. Humans have expressive faces, with 42 facial muscles; there is a universal “pain face”, with lowered eyebrows, eyes squeezed together, nose wrinkled, raised upper lip and open mouth.
Like us, cats also have a “pain face” but it takes some practice to become attuned to it. The Feline Grimace Scale (FGS) was developed to give veterinary professionals an easy-to-use tool to assess whether a cat needs pain medication. With some practice and attention to your cat’s environment, you can tell if your cat is painful.
The FGS focuses on 5 facial features:
position of the ears
shape of the eyes
shape of the muzzle
attitude of the whiskers
position of the head
Each feature is assigned a score of 0, 1 or 2.
“0” = no pain
“1” = moderate appearance of pain
“2” = obvious appearance of pain
The highest pain score with this system is 10; a score of 4/10 indicates the need for pain medication.
The Kitty Pain Face
scoring The Ears
Score = 0 Ears are up and facing forward
Score = 1 Ears are not facing forward and further apart; they are a little “flat”
Score = 2 Ears are flattened and rotated out, like the wings of an airplane
scoring the eyes
Score =0 Eyes are open
Score = 1 Eyes partially closed
Score =2 Eyes are “squeezed shut”
scoring the muzzle
Score = 0 Muzzle is relaxed and round in shape
Score = 1 Muzzle is tense and starting to become flatter
Score = 2 Muzzle is tense and elliptical in shape
scoring the whiskers
score = 0 Whiskers are relaxed and curved downwards
Score = 1 Whiskers are beginning to straighten, as the muzzle becomes tense
Score = 3 Whiskers are straight or forward
scoring the head
Score = 0 The head is up and above the line of the shoulders
Score = 1 The head is in line with the shoulders
Score = 2 The is below the line of the shoulder
Using the FGS
The FGS was developed for veterinary staff to monitor hospitalized patients. In the validation studies, cats were observed undisturbed for 30 seconds. This could be a challenge in the home, where the cat is not in a kennel and can move around.
Pain causes anxiety and stress. The expressions making up the cat’s “pain face” overlap with the body language of stress. How can you eliminate environmental stress when scoring your cat for pain?
getting a valid score for your cat
Don’t have 30 seconds?
If you’re having trouble watching your cat for 30 seconds, try scoring your cat, then score him again in 15-20 minutes and see if you get the same results as before.
Pain or environmental stress?
Reduce the effect of the environment on your cat. Don’t have someone hold him or rub his head. Try to observe him when there is not a lot of activity in the house – try guiding him to a quiet room and let him settle down before you try to score him. Don’t interact with him – he may respond by hiding his pain.
If your cat is grooming, eating, or vocalizing, wait until she is finished before assessing her. If sleeping, wait until she is awake.
practice telling if a cat is painful
Using the FGS can be challenging but it can help you decide sometimes if your cat needs veterinary treatment. Practice observing cats that are painful or not painful to give yourself a mental map of the cat’s face and demeanor.
Zelda plays with a feather toy at the end of a wand.
Providing opportunities for predatory play is one of the components of a cat-friendly home. Like people, cats are individuals, with different tastes and experiences. This certainly is one reason for the large variety of cat toys at the pet store. But what if your cat does not want to play?
Some cats like to play more than others
A group of researchers observed the responses of 31 cats to toy balls, a fishing pole style toy with a soft bird shaped toy at the end, and recorded sounds of a chirping bird, a squeaking mouse, crumpled paper and a rustling plastic bag. Thirteen of these cats were indoor-outdoor cats; the remaining 18 were indoor-only cats.
What did they find out?
Indoor-only cats touched or played with balls sooner than indoor-outdoor cats.
Indoor-only cats started searching earlier for playback sounds (chirping, squeaking etc) than the indoor-outdoor cats.
Why do indoor-only cats like to play more than outdoor cats?
The two groups of cats had close relationships with their owners: the main difference was that one group had access to the outdoors.
The indoor-outdoor cats most likely had experience with actual prey animals. Live prey can “fight back” and cause injury to the hunter, so a slower, more cautious approach may be smarter. The indoor-only cats don’t “know any better” and showed a more intense interest in and faster response to “simulated prey”, not having had any negative experience with hunting things.
Should I try to play with my indoor-outdoor cat?
Yes, play with your indoor-outdoor cat. Play is part of the regular, positive interactions we have with our cats. The need to hunt defines who your cat is – this is what he was born to do. Although he gets a lot of stimulation while outdoors, a short, regular play time helps reinforce the cat-owner bond.
It may be a bit more difficult to find that thing he’ll play with, compared to an enthusiastic indoor-only cat.
Gus has always enjoyed “treat toss” ( I throw dental treats for the cats to chase and eat).
He is not interested in the feather and mice toys at the end of a wand.
He occasionally plays with catnip toys and balls.
After two years, he has agreed to chase a pair of tied-together shoe laces down the hall and has his own preferred food puzzle.
My indoor-only cat just won’t play with anything
Cats are individuals and some cats like to play more than others. Yes, try to entice your cat to play. It can take longer to find out what some cats will play with. It may take a few tries before they become interested enough to chase that shoelace, mouse toy on a wand or the crumpled ball of paper you throw down the hallway. If the cat walks away, then try again another day.
A play session around the same time everyday lets them know what is going to happen.
Be alert to possible frustration – your cat needs some reinforcement intermittently to keep her playing the game.
Use the laser pointer to point to a treat when ending the laser tag session.
Let her catch the toy on the wand and chew on it occasionally during a play session.
End the play session with a game of “treat toss”.
Playing with more than one cat
Even if cats are not part of the same social group , they can still manage a joint play session. Cats are good at “time-sharing” – taking turns while another cat plays. Often they will have different preferences, so they will wait for “their toy”. Cats are often very willing to wait if there is a treat session at the end (after all, hunting requires patience!)
The importance of predatory play…
It is true that some cats like to play with toys or chase treats more than others. But every cat has a hunting heritage and helping him use it strengthens the bond between you and your cat.
You’ve had a tough day at work – you couldn’t keep anyone happy. You arrive home and your cat is there at the door as you come in. He rubs around your legs and stands up to bump your hand with his head. Of course, he is there for his dinner but afterwards, he will snuggle up to you on the sofa to watch some TV – at least, he seems happy with you!
Your relationship with your cat is more than just providing him with food and a warm place to sleep – it is also about the comfort you get from him when you are stressed. A recent study authored by Mauro Ines and colleagues looked at the different types of relationships that exist between cats and their people. They looked at the cat-owner relationship in terms of attachment AND social support.
cat-owner relationship
attachment
Attachment refers to an emotional bond between two individuals where each feels more secure and comforted when with the other.
We not only provide our cats with food and shelter but also security and comfort. As a consequence, our cats are ATTACHED to us and stay close to us.
social support
Social Support refers to a network of family and friends that you can turn to when you are stressed or feeling isolated and lonely.
In terms of social support, our cats make us feel needed because they need us to care for them. They give us a break from the complexities of interacting with people – they are available, not judgmental or unpredictable.
Mauro Ines’ research team conducted an extensive survey of cat owners. After the dust cleared, there were 3994 “reliable” responses for statistical analysis.
The study used four categories to evaluate cat-owner relationships:
The Owner’s emotional investment in the cat
The cat’s acceptance of people other than the Owner
The cat’s need to be close to the Owner
How friendly the cat was toward the Owner
Statistical analysis of the surveys revealed 5 distinct cat-owner relationships.
In three of these relationships (52% of the surveys), owners have a low level of emotional investment in their cats. The cats and owners do not seem to be very attached nor do they offer each other much social support.
“Open”
Owner has a “neutral” emotional investment in the cat
The cat typically goes outdoors
The cat is friendly to people in general
Cat has some affiliation with the owner.
These cats do not seek out owners when distressed.
“Remote”
Owner has a low level of emotional investment in the cat
Owner does not view the cat as part of the family.
The cat is often be sociable with people other than the Owner
The cat does not seek out the Owner when distressed.
“Casual”
Owner has a low level of emotional investment
The cat is sociable and friendly with other people
Little evidence that the cat discriminates the Owner from other people
These cats may visit other households in the neighborhood
About 45% of the surveys came from Owners with a high emotional investment in their cats. These Owners scored high on items like “my cat will often lick my hands or face”. These cats and owners have stronger relationships, both in terms of attachment and social support.
“Co-dependent”
These cats prefer to be close to their owners
These cats are wary of people other than the Owner
Usually a single-person household
The cat is indoor-only
Owner and cat play together frequently
“Friendship”
Usually a multi-cat home
These cats are often friendly with people other than the Owner
These cats like to be near the Owner but are not “clingy”
The Owner and cats have a “friendly” relationship but can function independently of each other.
A study like the one described above can have inherent biases that can limit its value in describing cat owners in general. For instance, the bulk of the survey responses came from women in the UK (66%). Only 10% of the responses came from US residents. In the UK, it is common for cats to have outdoor access (90%), whereas in the US, it is estimated that upward of 65% of pet cats are primarily indoors. If we were to survey cat owners in the US, would we find a greater percentage of “co-dependent” relationships? Would we find more emotionally invested owners with indoor-only cats?
This study, while interesting, is certainly not the last word in how cats bond with their people. However, it does suggest that the cat-human relationship is more than a simple caregiver- dependent relationship.
Why do a study like this?
One of the leading reasons why cats are relinquished to animal shelters is behavior problems. A better understanding of the cat-owner relationship could help resolve or possibly avoid such problem behaviors, keeping the cat in his home and improving the welfare of both cat and owner.
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You’re watching TV with your cat on your lap, absentmindedly stroking her. Suddenly, out of the blue, she swats you and jumps down. You rub your hand and wonder, “What was that all about?”
There are few practical guidelines for interacting with cats. A research team conducted a study at the Battersea Dogs and Cats Home in the UK to remedy this. The study tested a simple set of Human-Cat Interaction (HCI) guidelines that aim to make cats more comfortable when they are interacting with us.
C is for Choice and Control A is for Attention T is for Touch
choice and control…
Our cats’ ancestors were solitary hunters. They had to look out for themselves – if they were injured, they could not hunt; no hunting meant no food.
Cats are accomplished hunters but they are also prey for larger predators, such as coyotes. Consequently, cats are “control freaks” – to survive, they need to be in control of their interactions with their environment.
Allow a cat to CHOOSE whether or not to interact with you.
If you can, get on the cat’s level, offer your hand, and allow him to approach you.
If the cat wants to be touched, she will rub against your hand. If she doesn’t lean into your hand, don’t pet her.
Allow the cat to move away from you if he chooses; don’t follow him if he leaves.
Allow the cat to control how much you stroke her. When stroking her, pause every 3–5 sec to see if she wants to continue – does she rub against you to ask for more? If not, let her take a break.
Attention….
Pay attention to the cat’s body language and behavior. The following signals indicate that the cat is done interacting with you.
She turns her head or moves away from you.
His ears become flattened or rotate backwards.
She shakes her head.
The fur on his back “ripples”.
She licks her nose.
He becomes still, and stops purring or rubbing against you.
She sharply turns her head to face you or your hand.
He suddenly starts grooming himself but only for a few seconds at a time.
Her tail starts switching back and forth rapidly; usually the tail is horizontal or on the ground.
touch…
Think about where you are touching the cat.
A friendly cat prefers to be touched at the base of his ears, around his cheeks, and under his chin.
AVOID the base of her tail and tummy.
If you touch the cat’s back, flank, legs, or tail–watch his body language (see above) to see if he is comfortable with this.
Trying out the practical guidelines for interacting with cats
In the Battersea study, testing was conducted in 2 sessions: a “control” session and a second session after the human participant watched a 5 minute video demonstrating the CAT guidelines.
In each session, both control and post-video, the human participant visited with 3 cats, spending 5 minutes with each cat.
In the control session, the participant was instructed to remain seated in the cat’s room and interact with the cat as he or she usually would. The session was recorded by video.
After watching the instructional video, the participant would visit with 3 more cats as before, except following the CAT guidelines.
A total of 535 observations were made.
For each observation, cat behavior and posture was assessed and rated; the human participants were scored on how closely they followed the CAT guidelines.
Did the practical guidelines for interacting with cats work?
Before CAT instruction:
Cats in the control visits displayed more instances of human-directed aggression and more behaviors associated with conflict than cats in the post-education visits.
After CAT instruction:
The human participants in the study started following the CAT guidelines and the cats displayed more friendly and positive behaviors than in the control visits.
So, back to the cat on your lap in front of the TV. She became tired of being petted and may have indicated this by flattening her ears and turning her head to give you a meaningful look but you were not paying attention!
Let her Control the stroking (“ask” if she wants to continue)
Pay Attention to her body language (rippling skin? twitching tail? “airplane” ears?)
Touch her where she is comfortable being touched; if in doubt, stick with the base of the ears, the cheeks, and under the chin.
postscript
If you need to handle your cat and she’s not having it, try to make it worthwhile for her. Offer her a treat or a toy to put her in a positive emotional state.
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Clicker training your cat pairs the sound of the clicker, a small handheld gadget, with a treat or some other thing the cat likes. When the cat hears the click, he knows that a treat or something good is on its way. If the cat sits when he hears the word “sit” and hears a click as he sits, he will look for his expected reward. If he receives the reward, he will be more likely to “sit” next time upon command.
At the core of clicker training your cat are two learning processes: classical conditioning and operant conditioning. Let’s look at these two ways of learning.
Classical Conditioning – An involuntary response is associated with a stimulus
During the 1890’s, a Russian scientist, Ivan Pavlov was studying digestion in dogs, measuring the amount of saliva produced by a group of dogs presented with meat.
Pavlov noticed that:
the dogs would drool when food was placed in front of them
they would also drool before they received the meat, when they heard the footsteps of the assistant bringing the meat.
This started a series of experiments using lights, metronomes and, of course, bells to stimulate the drooling. Pavlov had discovered the learning process that we now call “classical conditioning”, where an involuntary response like salivating is associatedwith a stimulus, the ringing of a bell.
Operant conditioning – A voluntary behavior is associated with aN outcome
Likewise, snapping the lid off a can of cat food can help call the kitties to dinner. The dogs connected the ringing of the bell with food; your cats may be accustomed or conditioned to associate the sound of the can opening with being fed. This is another example of “classical conditioning”.
Your cat has heard the can opening. Now, he must decide whether he is going to come for dinner. Most of the time, he makes the decision to come when “called”, anticipating a dinner of cat food. This “voluntary” response is the learning process called operant conditioning – the cat has control over whether he comes or not.
Folks who study behavior have identified 4 different scenarios in operant learning: 2 that increase the likelihood that the behavior being trained will be repeated and 2 that decrease the likelihood that the behavior is repeated.
operant conditioning – 4 scenarios
INCREASE THE BEHAVIOR
POSITIVE REINFORCEMENT
ADD a good outcome – the cat is likely to perform the behavior again.
We ask the cat to “sit” and when he sits, we give him a tasty treat. We REWARD the behavior of sitting.
DECREASE THE BEHAVIOR
POSITIVE PUNISHMENT
ADD something unpleasant to discourage a behavior.
Your kitty jumps up on the counter and you spray her with water. She jumps down. You have added an unpleasant spray of water (punishment) to getting up on the counter.
negative reinforcement
TAKE AWAY something unpleasant- the cat is likely to do what stops what’s unpleasant.
You are trying to trim your cat’s nails but the moment you touch her foot with the clippers, she growls and hisses and you stop. It is likely next time, she will growl and hiss to stop you from trimming her nails. You are reinforcing her behavior of hissing and growling at nail trims by “removing” the unpleasant nail trim.
negative punishment
TAKE AWAY something the cat likes to discourage a behavior.
Your cat wakes you up at night to be petted. You put her outside the bedroom and close the door. You are removing the opportunity for some stroking that your cat enjoys with the hope that your cat will not wake you up in the future.
THE PROBLEM WITH positive PUNISHMENT
It is difficult to get the timing right – you must spray the cat as she is jumping on the counter otherwise she may associate something else (you) with the spray of water
Punishment does not remove a behavior. There is an immediate effect – kitty jumps off the counter – but she may continue to jump on the counter if you are NOT there to spray her.
Devices like a SSSCAT (a motion-activated spray system) may keep her off the counter as long as they are working. A concern with these devices is injury if the cat is startled and falls off the counter.
Punishment can put the cat into an anxious, fearful state, anticipating a consequence (punishment) the cat does not understand.
“Classical” conditioning and “operant” conditioning with positive reinforcement form the core of clicker training your cat.
The cat learns to associate the “click” of the clicker with food or something he values.
He will choose to perform a behavior, like sitting upon command, anticipating a treat.
Positive reinforcement is the most successful training technique because the cat will not be fearful or anxious but will be in a positive emotional state, ready to learn – after all, something good will happen!
A POSTSCRIPT
What to try if your cat hates nail trims
Positive reinforcement!
Start by handling her feet and giving her a treat for each paw you pick up.
Move on to touching her feet with the nail clippers, and give her treats for each paw.
Work up to trimming a few claws at a time, and of course, reward her!
Counter Surfing
With kitchen counters, the drive to seek food is strong and difficult for a cat to suppress. Also, cats instinctively, “go for the high ground”, especially if they are avoiding something they are leery of.
Is your cat jumping on the counter to get food or avoid the dog and the toddler? You may need to control the dog or toddler.
Keep food off the counters unless you are preparing it.
Find a place (preferably high) for kitty to sit while you are working at the counter and reward him for sitting there.
Sometimes, using “aversives”, things cats don’t like, may help. For example, using a non-toxic citrus spray on the counter or using an upside-down carpet runner (with the “spikes” facing up) may deter jumping up on the counter.
If your cat is driving you crazy or may get hurt, put him in a safe place with all his resources while you prepare food.
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The other day, a kitten came into the clinic for his 4 month exam and vaccines. He was a ball of energy and wanted to climb up me so I took out a toy from one of the cabinet drawers to play with him. This toy was a small wand with bells and feathers on it. I whisked the trailing feathers on the floor by him.
Poor fellow – the toy must have startled and scared him – he puffed up and hissed. I put the toy on the floor for him to examine – he approached tentatively, smelled the feathers and hissed again, so I put the toy away.
Later, when the doctor came into to do his examination, I pulled the toy out of the cabinet to show her; the kitten saw it and hissed again.
Why do cats hiss? What does it mean?
Domestic cats are capable of making at least 21 discrete vocalizations; our cats use these sounds to communicate with us – each cat has his/her own repertoire of sounds to tell us what he/she wants or feels.
How the hiss is made
The hiss is a long forceful exhalation made with the mouth open and the teeth bared. A hiss is a hiss – hisses among cats sound similar – it is a “voiceless” communication. The hiss can be made in a number of situations – we must look to the context and body language to interpret it.
When do cats hiss?
when they are afraid: Although we may associate hissing with anger and aggression, cats are more likely to hiss when they are afraid; it is usually the defensive cat who hisses in the cat fight. When accompanied by the fur standing on end, dilated pupils, and a cringing posture, the message is “I am afraid; leave me alone. I will defend myself if I have to.”
when they are startled – the “fight or flight” response is triggered; fur may be standing on end while the cat assesses the situation – is there danger?
when they are in pain – a hiss might mean don’t touch my “ouchy” spot – it hurts!
when they are frustrated/displeased – a cat may hiss when things are not going his way. My cat, Gus, will hiss when waiting for dinner (if service is slow!) or when another cat gets in his way. These hisses tend to be short and are not accompanied by fur on end, dilated pupils or change in posture.
Other thoughts on why cats hiss
Some experts think that cats hiss to mimic a snake and scare off attackers. Early mammals evolved in a landscape dominated by reptiles, which could be deadly. Evolutionarily, the hiss is coupled with fear for many mammals. Perhaps, cats are taking advantage of this connection of the hiss with fear.
While we may hush a baby to soothe it or shush someone to keep them quiet, your cat may not interpret these sounds the same way. Instead, shhh and hush may sound like a hiss to her, perhaps triggering a fearful/anxious response.
Back to our kitten friend, his initial hiss with his fur puffed up was due to being startled, with the accompanying rush of adrenalin as he did not know if this toy was dangerous.
When the kitten smelled the toy, he hissed again but without fear (no puffy fur) – perhaps he could smell other cats on this toy and this made him a little anxious (are these other cats who played with this toy friendly?)
He hissed again on seeing the toy from across the exam room, letting us know he did NOT like that toy!
In the video below, Gus and Marley are waiting for treats. Gus swats Marley and then gives a long hiss. His body posture is not tense, although he turns to the side to look more threatening; his fur is not puffed up. He is warning Marley to keep his distance (“and don’t even think of going for my treats!”)
Humans may curse or swear when they are annoyed, startled, excited, or in pain – cats, on the other hand, hiss. The hiss tells us the cat is experiencing a negative emotion. Before handling him, look to his body language to see if he is afraid, reacting to a painful stimulus or merely annoyed.
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