Touch not the cat: interacting with cats

Posted on February 27, 2022 by felinepurrspective_u3q4o6

T is for think about where you are touching the cat.

“Touch not the cat bot a glove” : so goes the motto of the Macpherson clan in Scotland. “Bot” means without; the cat referred to is the Scottish Wildcat. The motto warns that you must be careful handling a wildcat when his claws are not sheathed or “gloved”.

The Scottish Wildcat (Felis silvestris silvestris) still lives in Scotland today, a wild, reclusive cat whose numbers are dwindling.

After 10,000 years of living with humans, our domestic cats may have markers of domestication in their genome but they still share a lot with their wild ancestors and cousins. They still have sharp claws and teeth and need to be handled respectfully.

Dr. Lauren Finka, working with colleagues at the Battersea Dogs and Cats Home, came up with a simple set of Human-Cat Interaction Guidelines. These guidelines aim to make cats more comfortable when they are interacting with us.

These practical guidelines for interacting with cats follow the acronym CAT (easy to remember). Here they are!

is for choice and control. Cats are not only predators, they are also prey for larger animals such as coyotes. To survive, they need to be in control of their environment.

Give your cat choice and control –
Allow your cat to CHOOSE whether or not to interact with you.

If you can, get on the cat’s level, offer your hand, and allow him to approach you.
If the cat wants to be touched, she will rub against your hand. If she doesn’t lean into your hand, don’t pet her.
Allow the cat to move away from you if he chooses; don’t follow him if he leaves.
Allow the cat to control how much you stroke her. When stroking her, pause every 3–5 sec to see if she wants to continue – does she rub against you to ask for more? If not, let her take a break.

is for attention. Pay attention to what your cat is trying to tell you – watch her body language.

These signals indicate that your cat is done interacting with you.

Gus turns to face me and pulls back on his paw during a nail trim – he needs a break!

She turns her head or moves away from you.
His ears become flattened or rotate backwards.
She shakes her head.
The fur on his back “ripples”.
She licks her nose.
He becomes still, and stops purring or rubbing against you.
She sharply turns her head to face you or your hand.
He suddenly starts grooming himself but only for a few seconds at a time.
Her tail starts switching back and forth rapidly; usually the tail is horizontal or on the ground.

is for think about where you are touching the cat.

A friendly cat prefers to be touched at the base of his ears, around his cheeks, and under his chin.
AVOID the base of her tail and tummy.
If you touch the cat’s back, flank, legs, or tail–watch his body language (see above) to see if he is comfortable with this. Follow the CAT guidelines when interacting with cats for a safer, more enjoyable encounter!

Want to keep up with the world of cats? Subscribe to The Feline Purrspective!

Nature and Nurture: What makes a good pet cat

Posted on February 20, 2022May 4, 2022 by felinepurrspective_u3q4o6

Kittens at Kndergarten — Kittens at “kitten kindergarten” session

What makes A good pet cat?

We will soon be entering “kitten season” in Colorado. Although cats indoors can breed at any time of the year, the wild cat population typically mates in January and February. The kittens will be born about 2 months later, during warmer temperatures when prey is more abundant.

Many of these wild kittens will end up at the shelter; some may be adoptable.

How do I know if a cat will be a good pet cat?

Nature and nurture are parts of the puzzle that determine how a cat will behave towards people.

Nature:

Nature is the genetic makeup of a cat
Studies show that kittens of friendly fathers are more friendly
There are breeds of cats known for their good dispositions

Nurture:

Nurture: how the environment affects gene expression
A kitten’s physical surroundings, his experiences, and diet affect his development

The science of epigenetics studies modifications to our DNA that don’t change the DNA sequence. The epigenome refers to chemical compounds that are attached to your DNA. Exposure to pollutants, what you eat and stress are some things that can result in certain compounds attaching to your DNA and turning particular genes on or off. These changes can remain as cells divide and may pass from generation to generation.

Nurture : The “Sensitive Period” in kittens

Kittens learn most efficiently when they are 2-7 weeks old. This time is called the “sensitive period”, when rapid growth of neural cells makes learning easier. The learning that happens during the “sensitive period” prepares a kitten for the social and physical environment she is born into. A cat who will be a good pet cat needs to be exposed to humans and where humans live during her “sensitive period”.

Human contact

Kittens who are handled kindly and gently by a variety of humans during the “sensitive period” quickly learn to accept people and enjoy being with them. The positively socialized kitten generalizes what he learns about individual people to people in general.

Rough, insensitive handling during the “sensitive period” can make a kitten aggressive and fearful of people for life.

Exposure to Human households

Kittens exposed to the environment in human homes during the “sensitive period” adapt quickly to electronic devices and appliances, other animals, and living indoors. For example, they learn that the noise of the vacuum cleaner, although unpleasant, is not life threatening.

Diet

Kittens are more willing to try new foods at this time, although they follow their mother’s lead (if she is there) in choosing what to eat. Good nutrition helps a kitten’s brain and body develop – malnutrition early in life has been linked to epigenetic changes.

the end of the “sensitive period”

At 7 weeks, this “golden time” of learning closes – the fear reaction becomes established in the kitten. She will become more cautious and careful from now on. Caution and wariness are crucial to her development in the wild as a solitary hunter. She will continue to learn and develop socially but will not be as open to new experiences.

socialization after the “sensitive period”

By the time the sensitive period ends, kittens have been weaned and are eating solid food. In a wild cat colony, they will continue to play with other kittens and interact with adults. The kitten will learn how hard he can bite when playing- his litter mates will bite back! This is when he will learn the body language of adult cats, how to approach other cats, and improve his hunting skills by observing other cats.

thinking of adopting a kitten?

Think about adopting 2 – they can keep each other occupied and cats that grow up together often form strong bonds and a social group.
If possible, adopt kittens who are at least 12 weeks of age. These kittens will have spent some time with their mothers and litter mates, learning how hard they can bite when playing. They should also recognize some basic social signals given by adult cats (important if you are bringing them into a multi-cat home).
Above all – try to adopt kittens that were handled gently and kindly by people during their “sensitive period”. They are familiar with humans and enjoy being with them. Ask the adoption center about the kittens’ experiences when they were 2-7 weeks old!

If you opt to introduce kittens to older cats, SUPERVISE AT ALL TIMES. Make sure your older cats are vaccinated for upper respiratory diseases and feline leukemia (if they go outdoors). Gradual introduction is still recommended. A pair of kittens may still be your best bet in this situation and give you time to introduce all the cats at their own pace.

Want to keep up with the world of cats? Subscribe to The Feline Purrspective!

Brushing Your Cat’s Teeth: Why, Where, and How

Posted on February 13, 2022February 13, 2022 by felinepurrspective_u3q4o6

dental xrays of a cat — A cat’s dental x-rays. Top row: upper jaw. Bottom row:lower jaw. Courtesy of CatTails Feline Health Center

We humans typically have our teeth professionally cleaned once or twice a year. An annual professional cleaning is also essential to your cat’s health. But what about home dental care – what about brushing your cat’s teeth? And how do you go about doing it?

What’s in your cat’s mouth

Cats have 30 teeth. These teeth are designed

to hold on to prey
to slash and tear like steak knives.

What’s up front: Canines and incisors

The large “fang” teeth help hold on to a prey animal and “anchor” the jaws to deliver the “killing bite”. The smaller teeth between the fangs (the incisors) help hold prey but your cat also uses them while grooming – you may see your cat stop and “chew” with those front teeth to remove things from her fur or break up fur that is clumped together due to dirt and oil.

What’s Behind the Fangs: Premolars and Molars

Cats typically prey on mice, sometimes squirrels and rabbits. You will see the cat tilt his head as he chews on his prey. The premolars and lower molars help slash and tear up the mouse or squirrel into pieces the cat can swallow. Unlike human molar teeth, these pointy teeth do not have flat surfaces for grinding and chewing food.

Home Dental Care: Brushing Your Cat’s Teeth

Regular brushing reduces the amount of bacteria in the mouth and helps remove plaque, the bacteria-laden film that forms on the teeth and hardens to tartar in 72 hours. Cats, like humans, are also susceptible to the bacteria in plaque that migrate into blood vessels after infecting the gingiva or gums. Once in the bloodstream, the bacteria can effect major organ systems such as the heart and kidneys.

Brushing Your Cat’s Teeth: what you need

Pet specific toothpaste: The VOHC (Veterinary Oral Health Council) recommends the PetSmile brand,that works by dissolving the bio-film that forms on your cat’s teeth with hydrogen peroxide. Virbac CET enzymatic toothpaste contains lactoperoxidase, and is designed to boost a naturally occurring anti-bacterial process in the saliva. These toothpastes do not contain fluoride and can be swallowed.
Toothbrush: There are a number of pet toothbrushes available. You may need some trial and error to find the one that works for your cat.

Although there are videos on the Internet showing cats having their teeth brushed with electric human toothbrushes, most cats will prefer a manual toothbrush. Human toothbrushes are designed for much larger teeth.

Toothbrushes for cats — What you need to brush a cat’s teeth: left to right: a cat specific toothbrush, a pet toothbrush, toothpaste, gauze squares

Brushing Your Cat’s Teeth: Where to brush

Plaque and tartar tend to accumulate on the buccal (facing the lips) side of the cat’s upper premolars. Focus on these surfaces.

Your cat’s tongue has backward-facing barbs on it to help remove tissue from prey by licking. We don’t often see tartar on the inside surfaces of cats’ teeth during a professional, anesthetized cleaning. The barbs on the tongue may act like a brush, reducing tartar buildup.

Four Steps to Brushing Your Cat’s Teeth

Accustom your cat to having his head handled. Rub his chin with one hand and gently hold his head with your other hand. Your thumb will be on his cheekbone, your second and third fingers between his ears and your 4th and 5th fingers on his opposite cheekbone. Hold briefly, then reward him with a treat.
Once your cat is comfortable with you handling his head, introduce him to the toothpaste. Let him lick this off your finger.
The next step is to rub some toothpaste on his upper premolars with your finger while you hold his head and lift his upper lip. Make sure to reward him.
Introduce the toothbrush. Focus on those upper premolars. Press lightly as if you are “coloring” a picture. Use a back and forth motion. Finish up with a reward!

My Cat Won’t Use a Toothbrush

If you can get through steps 1-3, your cat will still get some benefit. A recent study by Watanabe and colleagues found simply applying the Virbac toothpaste to the teeth reduced plaque, although not as much as brushing did.

Another way to clean teeth without a toothbrush uses gauze squares. The toothpaste is applied to the gauze and the teeth and gums are rubbed lightly with these “toothpasted” squares. There are also purpose-made cleaning wipes for dogs and cats.

Dr. Melissa Guillory, a former feline vet turned dentist, has a few tips for brushing your cat’s teeth:

Brushing seems to work best when instituted at a young age.
It’s nice to get the lingual (tongue) surfaces [of the teeth] but buccal (cheek) surfaces are most important – that’s where the most plaque and calculus accumulate.
Use a pet specific toothpaste (fluoride can cause GI upset)
It only takes 72 hours for calculus to form so daily brushing or every other day is best 🙂

A yearly professional dental cleaning under anesthesia with x-rays is essential to your cat’s health. Between cleanings, keep brushing your cat’s teeth to maintain her dental health.

Want to keep up with the world of cats? Subscribe to The Feline Purrspective!

Cats eating from a food puzzle: contrafreeloading?

Posted on February 6, 2022February 13, 2022 by felinepurrspective_u3q4o6

Why slide a block aside to uncover food when there is food freely available in a bowl nearby? Psychologists call the behavior “contrafreeloading” – it refers to animals (and people) preferring to work for food when there is freely available food.

This behavior sounds counter-intuitive – after all, you would expect an animal to choose the option that requires the least effort. But psychologists and behaviorists propose that contrafreeloading is a manifestation of the SEEKING system – one of the seven basic emotional systems proposed by Jaak Panksepp, the father of “affective neuroscience”. Affective neuroscience studies how the brain produces emotional responses.

The SEEKING system is thought to be the strongest of the primary emotional systems. It’s what gets animals out looking for food, looking for a mate, looking for other resources.

When the SEEKING system is activated

the brain releases dopamine, a neurotransmitter that makes you feel pleasure.
It is the rewarding feeling you get when you are looking for something and find it.
Once you’ve found the object of your desire, the brain shuts off the dopamine and other emotions are activated.

So the action of SEEKING can be more enjoyable than finding what you’re looking for. Think about those travel advertisements that tell you that “getting there is half the fun”!

Dogs, mice, rats, birds, monkeys and even humans have been found to engage in “contrafreeloading”.

cats eating from a food puzzle: contrafreeloading?

A recent study by Mikel Delgado and colleagues enrolled 20 domestic cats to observe this behavior. They investigated the behavior of cats eating from a food puzzle versus eating food from a tray. Cats eating from a food puzzle have to manipulate the puzzle to get the food out.

The cats were first trained to the puzzle by having increasing amounts of their food in the puzzle and decreasing freely available food on a tray.

At first, only 25% of their food was in the puzzle.
Once they started to eat some food from the puzzle, the amount in the puzzle was increased to 50%, then to 75%.
Three cats refused to eat any food from the puzzle and were dismissed from the study.
Cats were exposed to the equipment for 4-12 days before testing.

Cats underwent 2-4 trials a day, no less than 2 hours apart. The puzzle and the food tray were placed next to each other, and were the same distance from the cat. The cat’s daily food ration was divided equally between trials. In each trial, the food was divided up equally between the puzzle and the food bowl.

Cats are freeloaders!

Half of the cats ate less than 10% of their food from the puzzle. All of the cats ate most of their food from the tray – no cats were strong “contrafreeloaders”. Eight cats were definitely “freeloaders” – the rest seemed willing to do some contrafreeloading. Although a number of cats approached and sniffed the puzzle first, all the cats ate from the tray first.

Cats seem to be one of the few species that does not seem to be inclined to work for their food in a captive environment. But cats have been known to STOP EATING to hunt prey – that certainly involves working for food!

why are cats freeloaders?

Cats eating from a food puzzle are engaging in “foraging” behavior.

Cats are solitary predators

They must conserve their energy for the energy burst needed when hunting
They are not above scavenging a free meal
Maybe it makes sense to a cat to eat some of the “free food” first before putting energy into foraging?

Is hunting more “fun”?

Is the SEEKING system stronger for cats when they hunt compared to when they forage?
Do their brains release more dopamine when they are stalking, pouncing and chasing?
Do their brains release less dopamine when they are foraging?

cats eating from a food puzzle

Does this mean you should not bother offering your cat food puzzles for enrichment? No – food puzzles help reduce boredom and engage cats mentally. Indoor cats in particular may benefit from using food puzzles.

training your cat to use a food puzzle

Start by offering 25% of the meal in the food puzzle and 75% in a bowl or tray.
When your cat is eating some of the food in the puzzle, increase the amount of food in the puzzle to 50% and decrease the amount in the bowl to 50%.
Increase the amount of food in the puzzle to 75%; decrease the amount in the bowl to 25%
When your cat is eating most of his meal in the puzzle, offer him the puzzle only.

A demonstration can help your cat learn. Cats are able to mimic the actions of humans and they are able to adapt human actions to their own bodies.

selecting a food puzzle

Cats using a puzzle feeder — Two cats using the Catit Food Tree.

There are many food puzzles you can make or purchase. Start your cat with a “beginner” puzzle and see what he likes to do. My ex-feral cat, Gus, easily mastered the Catit “Food Tree” but it was almost a year or so before he was willing to try a flat panel puzzle where he had to move pieces to uncover the food.

You may want to make some puzzles first to find out your cat’s preferences before purchasing one. Visit foodpuzzlesforcats.com!

Want to keep up with the world of cats? Subscribe to The Feline Purrspective!

Arthritis in cats: a tale of biotech and a Chinese hamster

Posted on January 30, 2022 by felinepurrspective_u3q4o6

If you search for “monoclonal antibodies”, most of the search results are about COVID-19 and its variants. But did you know that monoclonal antibodies form the basis of the newest treatment for arthritis in cats? This new treatment is called Solensia. Solensia is a monthly injection for arthritic cats that won FDA approval this month. It should be available through your veterinarian later this year.

arthritis in cats: a tale of biotech and a chinese hamster

what are monoclonal antibodies?

Monoclonal: refers to a cell or organism that comes from a single individual or cell.
Antibodies are proteins in the blood that our immune system produces to counteract a foreign substance such as a bacteria or virus (think COVID-19).

antibodies and the immune system

Immune cells in our bodies called B-lymphocytes mount a response to a foreign substance or antigen (e.g. a virus), binding to it and deactivating it. The presence of the antigen and immune cells called T cells activate the B-cells. The B cells then propagate and release antibodies that are able to bind to and deactivate the specific antigen that stimulated their formation!

Monoclonal antibodies are derived from clones or copies of activated B cells. They can be harvested and grown in the laboratory and used to fight infections caused by the antigen they were developed to target.

Where do monoclonal antibodies come from?

Blood cells from convalescing patients: Due to the large numbers of convalescing COVID patients, there was a ready source of blood cells containing B-cells with antibodies to COVD 19 that could be used to make monoclonal antibodies to treat newly infected patients.
Transgenic mice: Mice that have been genetically altered to carry human antibody genes instead of mouse antibody genes are the usual source for monoclonal antibodies. These mice can be injected with a specific antigen and produce fully human antibodies that can be used by human patients to combat that antigen. Being human antibodies, they are less likely to be rejected by the human immune system.

Arthritis in cats: using monoclonal antibodies

Nerve growth factor (NGF) is a protein that is key to the development and survival of nerve cells or neurons, particularly sensory neurons that transmit pain, temperature, and touch sensations.

When NGF binds to pain receptors inside the sensory neuron, a series of events is triggered that ultimately sends a “pain” signal to the brain.

Instead of binding to a structure on a virus, monoclonal antibodies can be developed to recognize and attach to NGF, preventing NGF from binding to the pain receptors on the sensory neruron, blocking the pain signal.

Motion is Medicine

A reduction in pain means our arthritic cats will be more likely to move around more. Increased mobility will strengthen the cat’s muscles, so they can better support and assist the deteriorating joints. Increased activity and reduced pain result in a better quality of life.

Biotech Magic

The active ingredient in Solensia is frunevetmab, a monoclonal antibody that targets NGF. The antibodies are sourced from Chinese hamster ovary cells. Like the mice that have human antibodies instead of mouse antibodies, the hamster cells are “felinised”using recombinant biotechnology. Sections of the hamster antibodies are replaced with their feline counterparts. “Felinization” ensures that the cat’s immune system will not reject the monoclonal antibodies but allow them to function as part of the cat’s immune system.

Of cats and hamsters: no hamsters harmed

Frunevetmab is sourced from the cells of Chinese hamster ovaries. In fact, cells from an individual Chinese hamster, harvested back in the 1950s, produced the cell line which dominates biotechnology today. These cells are easy to propagate and maintain in the lab, providing a ready source of monoclonal antibodies.

multimodal therapy for arthritis in cats

Solensia is a pain medication and does not directly aid in preserving the synovial tissues. Most likely, Solensia will be part of a multimodal treatment that will include drugs and supplements like Adequan or glucosamine that are thought to help maintain synovial tissues in addition to weight loss and exercise.

Unlike other arthritis pain treatments such as NSAID’s, monoclonal antibodies are eliminated in the same way other proteins are, with minimal effect on the kidneys and liver, a concern for our cats with Chronic Kidney Disease.

Treatment using Solensia will consist of monthly injections under the skin. Most cat owners can become proficient in giving subcutaneous injections and treatment can be done in the safety and comfort of the cat’s home.

Thanks to a Chinese hamster years ago and advances in biotechnology, our cats may be able to spend their “ golden years” without pain from osteoarthritis!

Want to keep up with the world of cats? Subscribe to The Feline Purrspective!

Medication before your cat’s vet visit

Posted on January 23, 2022January 25, 2022 by felinepurrspective_u3q4o6

Many of us (cat owners) dread taking our cat to the vet. There is the ordeal of the carrier and car trip; once there, your cat seems miserable. However, regular veterinary care is the key to a happy and longer life for your cat. Can medication before your cat’s vet visit help?

Not every cat needs medication at the vet. Some cats are fine just having some familiar things with them. Familiarity can help reduce situational anxiety – the anxiety you experience when you are in a strange place. Things we can do to increase familiarity for your cat at the vet visit include:

Training her to be comfortable in her carrier
Choosing a carrier with a removable top to allow examination in her carrier
Getting her used to the car and taking her on some drives that don’t end up at the vet
Bringing your cat’s favorite treats
Spraying the carrier with pheromones (Feliway) before the visit

For some cats, this may not be enough. Your usually nice kitty becomes a raging demon or just freezes like a rock and doesn’t move – both reactions can be the result of anxiety and fear.

I recently took my youngest cat in a for a rabies vaccine and to have a tooth evaluated. Gus accepted handling and food but had a whopping heart rate of 230 beats per minute! He was anxious even though I was there with him.

We would like our cats to associate good things with going to the vet but they may not be feeling well when they are there or they anticipate getting poked with a needle for vaccinations or blood tests. So, when the carrier comes out, your cat may associate it with negative emotions and understandably becomes anxious.

Anxiety actually has a function in our lives – worrying about something in the bushes pouncing on you probably saved a lot of cavemen and feral cats; anxiety can improve your physical and mental performance. But anxiety at the vet clinic does not benefit your cat and can actually make things worse. An unpleasant visit can become an unpleasant memory.

Medication before your cat’s vet visit

Have you ever had elevated blood pressure at a doctor visit? Anxiety before medical appointments is common for people as well as cats. Because cats don’t speak human language, we can’t reassure them and let them know exactly what is happening. It is worth considering medication before your cat’s vet visit to help reduce his anxiety.

Gabapentin and trazodone are two medications commonly used to reduce the stress of the vet visit. These medications must be prescribed by your veterinarian.

Gabapentin

Developed as an anti-convulsant
Has anti-anxiety properties – reduces the release of excitatory neurotransmitters
Is a pain reliever

Gabapentin is commonly used in the veterinary practice to reduce anxiety in cats. There have been a few studies evaluating fear and stress in cats having taken gabapentin – these studies found a reduced CSS (cat stress score) after administration of gabapentin.

The typical dose is 100 mg given 1.5 – 2 hours prior to the vet visit. Frequently, a dose is also given the night before. Doses can vary for individual cats – some cats may do well with a 50 mg dose while others may need 150 mg.

Gabapentin is available in capsules, liquid and small tablets.

Capsules: The capsule is opened and the powder is mixed in a small amount of tuna fish or canned cat food. Gabapentin is bitter and some cats may not eat it in food. The capsules may also be given using a pet piller or a squeeze up treat.
Liquid: The liquid may result in foaming at the mouth.
Tablets: Gabapentin can also be compounded into small, flavored tablets – these can be given in pill treats.

Your cat may be a little sleepy or wobbly after taking gabapentin. You may want to watch kitty near the stairs or jumping up on things!

Gabapentin is a pain reliever for cats – reducing pain may be one of the ways it helps reduce anxiety and fear

Trazodone

Antidepressant that is commonly prescribed for insomnia and depression in humans
One of its side effects is drowsiness

There have been a few studies looking at cats receiving trazodone. One study in particular found that the CSS (cat stress score) was the same in the treated group as the group receiving the placebo. So, trazodone appears to be more of a sedative (makes you sleepy) than an anti-anxiety drug.

Typical dose is 50 mg given by mouth 90 minutes before the stressful event.

Can result in lower blood pressure in cats
There is a risk of serotonin syndrome if used with other anti-depressant medication such as fluoxetine (Reconcile).
Available as a tablet or can be compounded into a liquid or capsule form.

There is increased interest in identifying medications to reduce stress and anxiety in cats at veterinary visits. We should expect to see more medications becoming available in the near future.

Medication before your cat’s vet visit can be part of a low-stress veterinary visit. However, it will be most effective when combined with training to reduce situational anxiety and low-stress handling techniques.

As for Gus, I will make sure to give him some gabapentin before vet visits.

Want to keep up with the world of cats? Subscribe to The Feline Purrpspective!

Cats at play- a guide to play between cats

Posted on January 16, 2022August 19, 2023 by felinepurrspective_u3q4o6

Invitation to play — artwork by Phyllis Meyer

It’s fun to watch cats at play – pouncing on each other, wrestling and chasing after one another. But some of these behaviors are similar to fighting – how do you know when cats are playing or fighting?

A group of cat behavior researchers (Reference 1) posed this question recently. Previous research has focused on what the cat is playing with – an object, another cat? These researchers classify play according to the emotions and motivations of the cat. They have coined the phrase “mutual social play” and have listed the behaviors that are characteristic of mutual social play between cats. This list will help us decide if our cats are playing or fighting.

“Play” has many different definitions. The Oxford English Dictionary defines “play” as “engag[ing] in activity for enjoyment and recreation rather than a serious or practical purpose”.

Cats at play – what are they playing with?

Object play

Chase a ball
Throw a catnip mouse into the air
Pounce and attack another cat’s tail – although the cat is playing with another cat, this play treats the other cat’s tail like an object.

Social Play

with other cats
with other animals (including humans)

Kittens practice hunting skills and improve their coordination through play. Play helps adult cats explore their environment and engage in social relationships in a way that’s fun for them.

Let’s return to our original question – play between cats can look pretty rough. How do we tell whether cats are playing or fighting?

The body language of cat aggression

There is nothing as dramatic as a cat fight. Two cats face off, fur standing on end, yowling and spitting. Often, one cat may slowly move away, all the time presenting his side to the other cat (to look larger); his back may be arched. Depending on the motive for the standoff, the remaining cat may just stand his ground and allow the other to leave or he may pounce, and the two cats grapple each other, biting, clawing, kicking, and the “cat ball” rolls away until it stops and both cats take a breather.

Kittens practice these fighting postures when they play with littermates. You can see them arch their backs and sidestep. However, as kittens reach 12 weeks or so, the arch and sidestep (Reference 1) are seen less frequently. This is most likely because the kittens are starting to identify these postures as aggressive, as part of a cat fight.

Although kittens will continue play together, they start to become more interested in playing with objects around 10-14 weeks of age. They begin to focus more on capturing prey and getting food for themselves.

Cats at Play – Mutual Social Play

Adults cats also play, although play becomes less frequent as cats grow older.

“The function of play is to build pro-social brains, social brains that know how to interact with others in positive ways,” said Jaak Panksepp, a noted neurobiologist.

Mutual social play

Is reciprocal, that is the participants want to play with each other
The participants enjoy the interaction
The participants exercise social skills that can be used in other social interactions

Cats at Play: the body language of mutual social play

In mutual social play, there should not be much vocalization such growling or hissing; claws are generally sheathed and biting is gentle, without intent to injure. There are lots of pauses. Play starts with an invitation and ends by mutual consent.

Invitation to play

Two cats face each other – one may roll over on his back showing his belly. The other cat can be standing close over the first cat – the tail is often up. One cat may reach out and tap the other cat with his paw.

Play

The invitation is often followed by a pounce and the two cats may engage in bouts of wrestling and chasing. The cats will switch roles. They may repeat the “invitation” to continue the play session.

end of play

Play usually ends with one cat standing facing the other cat, who may be on his/her side, or there is a chase sequence that just dies off, with the cats walking away from each other.

When cats at play begin to fight:

What starts as mutual social play can sometimes turn into a cat fight.

What to watch for:

There is no reciprocity – cats are no longer taking turns pouncing and chasing
Increase in vocalization – hissing, growling
You start to see “distance increasing postures”: standing sideways, arching back, fur on end

what to do: separate the cats

Distraction – If a bag of cat treats is at hand, shake it. Try pulling a toy on a wand or shining a laser pointer on the floor between the two cats.
If hostilities are not too far advanced, try tossing treats in opposite directions
Use a towel or piece of cardboard to herd the cats away from each other
Give the cats a “cool-down” period in separate rooms

Above all, avoid handling the cats – cat bites and scratches can easily become infected and require medical attention.

Play can be part of the “social glue” that keeps a social group of cats together. Keep an eye on interactions between the cats in your home – particularly ones between cats of different social groups. Make sure to not to confuse fighting with mutual social play!

references

Gajdoš Kmecová Noema, Pet’ková Barbara, Kottferová Jana, Skurková Lenka, Mills Daniel S. “Are These Cats Playing? A Closer Look at Social Play in Cats and Proposal for a Psychobiological Approach and Standard Terminology” Front. Vet. Sci., 23 July 2021. Sec. Animal Behavior and Welfare Volume 8 – 2021 | https://doi.org/10.3389/fvets.2021.712310

Want to keep up with the world of cats? Subscribe to The Feline Purrspective!

Giving Your Cat a Pill – Pill Training

Posted on January 9, 2022 by felinepurrspective_u3q4o6

Giving your cat a pill can be a challenge for many cat owners. Often, the pills are bitter or seem too big. The veterinary staff demonstrates the technique but when you get home, you end up with a cat under the bed and the pill on the floor!

I had medicated cats before I became a veterinary technician, using a plunger style pet piller. In tech school, I adopted a 3 yr old Birman cat, Marley, who needed a daily dose of medication for anxiety. It was a daily struggle giving that little blue pill, which could end up in his mouth, but I often found it under the bed or in the hallway on the floor. Marley would see the pet piller in my hand and run.

Giving your cat a pill – daily medications

So, I cringed when my cat Athena was found to be hypothyroid after radioactive iodine treatment. She needed thyroid pills twice a day. She is a cat who could be difficult to handle alone. However Athena liked the soft treats the pill was hidden in, and life was good, for a time….

After a while she tired of the pill treats and we were back to the drawing board. I turned to some low stress techniques – I first offer Athena a treat, then the treat-coated pill, and follow with a few more treats. When I adopted Zelda and Gus, who will eat anything that is not locked up, I finally trained all the cats to sit in a circle and stay, while Athena takes her medication. Then all the cats get treats!

I still have to “pill” Athena occasionally – she does not like having something slid down her throat and quickly goes back to eating the pill by herself.

cat whispering – pill training

Giving your cat a pill for a chronic condition can be different than medicating her when she does not feel well. Say she is diagnosed with pancreatitis or an upper respiratory infection. Either one of these can reduce appetite and then your cat is not interested in treats. This is when having done some “pill training” comes in handy.

If you are doing a treat time every day or a treat time a few times a week, mix it up a bit and give some treats using “pilling” techniques.

A Pet Piller to give medication — A pet piller with a hard treat.

Treats by Pet Piller

Start by offering your cat the pet piller with a lickable treat on it.
Then try offering hard treats using the piller
Get your cat accustomed to having you behind him while giving treats.
When your cat needs medication and he is not well enough to take it in treats, the pet piller will be familiar.

Giving your cat a pill – think outside the box

Sometimes, you need to think outside the box when giving your cat a pill. A few months ago, my youngest cat, Gus, got loose with his harness and leash on when we were hiking. After 2 hours, we found him – his harness and leash were gone, and he was painful when walking. An MRI of his spine showed lots of inflammation but fortunately, no nerve damage. He was so painful that he would growl when he changed positions. His appetite was down and taking a pain medication in a treat was not an option.

I considered using the pet piller since he is familiar with it but then decided to try a technique I had recently seen at a conference on senior cat care. This technique uses one of the popular “squeeze up” treats for cats that come in tubes (Delectables, Churu).

Cut the end of the tube so that you can squeeze the paste up for the cat to lick.

Put the tablet or capsule in the opening.

Squeeze the tube and the tablet goes up into the cat’s mouth with the paste.

giving your cat a pill – practice makes purrfect!

Why wait until your cat is sick to come up with a strategy for giving your cat a pill? Do some “pill training” – set aside some time to accustom your cat to different ways of taking “pills” (disguised treats). When the time comes to give that pill, your cat will be familiar with the pet piller or squeeze-up treat and you will have had some practice with pilling.

Want to keep up with the world of cats? Subscribe to The Feline Purrspective!

Arthritis Supplements for cats – do they work?

Posted on December 19, 2021 by felinepurrspective_u3q4o6

A cat receives an injection of polysulfonated glycosaminoglycans.

It is thought that almost 40% of all cats have clinical signs of arthritis and 90% of cats over age 12 have damage to the joints that you can see on x-rays. Cats are such masters at hiding pain that we are now thinking that arthritis is there earlier, pain is happening and we may not be able to see it on x-rays yet.

What if we could be proactive and start some kind of treatment before our cats even seem painful? Could we slow the deterioration of the joints? What arthritis supplements for cats are available and do they work?

The motivation behind writing this post was to help my youngest cat, 5 year old Gus, who showed some indications of spinal arthritis in his x-rays. Should I begin a supplement with him? I was astounded by the sheer numbers of arthritis supplements for cats on the market and the astounding claims they made.

arthritis supplements for cats – do they work?

Arthritis supplements for cats on the market now range from supplements used by humans to homeopathic remedies. Clinical trials are rare to non-existent on many of these products. This post addresses the more common products and ones that have had some double-blinded clinical studies done.

glucosamine/chondroitin,
omega fatty acids/ green lipped mussel extract
polysulfated glycosaminoglycans

Glucosamine/chondroitin

Glucosamine occurs naturally in cartilage, the flexible connective tissue found throughout the body – for example, in the external ears and the surfaces of joints. The supplement can be made synthetically in the lab or harvested from the shells of shellfish.

Some human studies have shown oral glucosamine may help with pain relief and slowing of joint degeneration in people suffering from osteoarthritis. However, in general, the results from these studies are not conclusive.

Dasuquin is a commercially available formulation of glucosamine/chondroitin for cats. It is a dietary supplement in a capsule that is sprinkled on food. The product has been evaluated for safety.

A recent double-blinded study of Dasuquin enrolled 59 cats with Degenerative Joint Disease.

All 59 cats were given a placebo for 2 weeks.
Then 29 cats received the supplement for 6 weeks while another 30 continued to receive the placebo.
The cats were evaluated by using an at-home accelerometer (like a kitty “fit bit”), owner observations and vet exams through out the study.
The study showed a strong placebo effect – 78% of the cats were more active while on the placebo.
Cats on the supplement did not show any statistically significant improvement over cats on the placebo.

However, the study did raise some questions:

The “kitty fit-bits” showed that the least active cats at the start of the study became more active on the supplement. Were these cat more painful to begin with?
The placebo was given in the first two weeks of the study when owner enthusiasm would have understandably been highest and owners would have been looking for improvement.

More research is needed – perhaps a different study design?

Omega Fatty acids (fish oils)

Supplementation with fish oils has shown some benefit for arthritic cats. A double-blinded study showed that cats supplemented with fish oil for 10 weeks were more active, going up and down the stairs more, jumping higher, not walking as stiffly and were more interactive with their people. This study used owner evaluation to assess the cats’ improvement.

Fish oil can be given as a dietary supplement (Welactin) or fed as a therapeutic diet, such as Hill’s j/d.

Side effects of fatty acid supplementation include GI upset and reduced blood clotting. There is some controversy over how much fish oil is enough. Additionally, fish oil can add quite a bit of calories to your cat’s diet and could result in weight gain, taxing your cat’s joints further.

Merial’s Antinol for Cats supplement is based on fatty acids from green-lipped mussel extract. There are a number of case studies where the supplement has been given to cats with good results for cardiac and dermatological issues, in addition to joint and mobility problems.

Polysulfated Glycosaminoglycans (PSGAGs)

This product is available under the brand name Adequan. It is the veterinary version of Arteparon, used in humans.

Decreases the breakdown in cartilage. The PSGAG’s allows the cartilage to hold more water, making it resistant to degradation.
Adequan has been extensively studied in dogs and horses for over 20 years and is FDA-approved for these species
Available by prescription.
Given by subcutaneous injection in cats with generally good results.

The jury is still out on most of the arthritis supplements for cats. Given at the manufacturer’s recommended dose, these products are safe and may be effective. Considering the individual nature of pain, some cats may respond favorably while others do not. Once again supplements are basically unapproved drugs so there is not the rigorous evaluation that accompanies FDA approval.

Your vet is your best resource on arthritis supplements for cats. He or she will be able to recommend a supplement or diet that is appropriate for your cat and is compatible with other medications or medical conditions your cat may have. In particular, combining supplements should be done with care – glucosamine, fatty acids and Adequan all effect how your cat’s blood clots.

So, what will I do for Gus?

My vets recommended the Adequan injection, citing the robustness of the canine studies and the fact that it is an injection – there is a greater confidence that the cat will get the supplement. We are not depending on him to eat something.

Want to keep up with the world of cats? Subscribe to The Feline Purrspective!

Measuring your cat’s blood pressure: why and how

Posted on December 12, 2021 by felinepurrspective_u3q4o6

HDO BP cat — A cat relaxes in his basket during a blood pressure reading at home using an HDO unit. The cuff is on his tail. The blood pressure wave is on the computer screen.

You’ve brought your senior cat in for her regular checkup and the technician asks you if you would like to have her blood pressure checked. Although your blood pressure is routinely checked when you go to the doctor, it has not occurred to you to ask to have your cat’s blood pressure checked. Should you have your cat’s blood pressure measured? How is it done – will it be uncomfortable? Frightening?

Why measure your cat’s blood pressure

As cats age, many develop hyperthyroidism and kidney disease. Other cats may develop diabetes. All of these conditions can result in the heart pumping harder to compensate for the changes. As the heart pumps harder, blood pressure increases and arteries, the eyes, the kidneys, the brain and heart can be damaged.

Left untreated, high blood pressure can result in:

blindness
increasing loss of protein through the kidneys >> shortened life span
disorientation, lack of balance, seizures, altered mentation or behavior, or weakness in the limbs

The best way to avoid these consequences is to monitor your cat’s blood pressure and start treatment if his blood pressure is high.

So how do we measure your cat’s blood pressure?

When measuring blood pressure in humans, we typically place a pressure cuff on the upper arm, inflate the cuff until the flow of blood to the artery is shut off . The cuff is then released, and a wave of blood fills the artery, turbulent at first, then subsiding to a smooth flow.

The human practitioner can use a stethoscope to listen to the sounds made as the blood rushes back into the artery.

The first sound is heard at the systolic blood pressure (the higher number in 120/80)
The final sound is heard at the diastolic pressure (the lower number in 120/80).

We will also use a blood pressure cuff to measure your cat’s blood pressure. This cuff can be put:

on the front leg
on the hind limb, above or below the hock (ankle)
on the tail

Cats’ arteries are much smaller than humans’ and it is difficult to hear the sounds of the blood flow using a stethoscope, so we turn to other methods: Doppler and oscillometric.

Doppler

A Doppler unit measures blood flow.

After placing the cuff on your cat, the Doppler sensor is placed over the target artery.
Piezoelectric crystals in the sensor detect changes in the flow of blood in the arteries and convert these to sound.
Acoustic gel on the sensor ensures good contact so that the practitioner can hear the heartbeat.
The cuff is inflated until the heartbeat is no longer heard.
The cuff is then released and the pressure at which the heartbeat can be heard again is the systolic blood pressure.
Headphones are usually used when measuring blood pressure with a Doppler.

Doppler units give us a measurement of the systolic blood pressure, the larger number in the 120/80.

Oscillometric

Only a cuff needs to be placed to measure your cat’s blood pressure with an oscillometric unit.

A sensor in the cuff detects the pressure pulses in the artery.
As the cuff is inflated, the pulses decrease as flow to the artery is cut off.
The cuff is then deflated and the pressure wave that results as the blood rushes back into the artery is analyzed.

Oscillometric units typically only measure the peak of this wave, the average blood pressure, and calculate the systolic and diastolic pressures.

A High Definition Oscillometric unit records the entire pressure wave, directly measuring the systolic and diastolic pressures. An HDO unit is usually connected to a computer to view the pressure wave and determine if the measurement was accurate.

How accurate is a blood pressure if my cat is nervous at the vet clinic?

Just like people, cats get anxious and nervous when visiting the vet clinic. Blood pressure is sensitive to this and it can be a challenge to measure your cat’s blood pressure.

Putting the odds in our favor:

Most of the time, you should be with your cat during a blood pressure measurement. Your cat knows you and trusts you. Your presence is reassuring and calming.
Allow your cat to settle in for 5-10 minutes – the measurement should be done in a quiet room.
If your cat likes to snuggle in your lap, see if the measurement can be done there. If your cat prefers to sit on his stomach, perhaps a tail measurement is best. If he is comfortable laying on his side, a hind leg may be better.
Using the front leg to measure blood pressure puts the practitioner in front of the cat; curious cats may want to take a nibble at the blood pressure cuff. I prefer that your cat be facing you, her person, who can reassure her. I feel the tail and hind leg work better.
The artery being measured, tail or hind leg, should be at the same level as the heart – so kitty should not be sitting up, but laying comfortably on his stomach or side.

What do the numbers mean?

Again, like people, the systolic pressure is ideally around 120.
Pressures 150 and over can indicate the need for medication.
Your vet may also do an eye exam, looking at the eye with an ophthalmoscope or lens. In some instances of high blood pressure, the vessels in the eye dilate and become twisted; sometimes the retina may be detached, resulting in blindness. If high blood pressure is caught early enough, blindness may resolve with treatment.

My cat’s blood pressure is high but her eyes looked OK. What next?

High blood pressure can be treated with drugs – the most common drug used is oral amlodipine. Amlodipine takes effect fairly quickly and a blood pressure can be repeated in about 10 days and the dose adjusted if needed.
Other medications such as benazepril or telmisartan may be used alongside or in place of amlodipine.

I don’t think the reading was accurate – my cat was too nervous

It is worth investing in a home blood pressure visit. A practitioner can come to your home and get a measurement where your cat feels safe and secure.

Measuring your cat’s blood pressure especially as she gets older will help keep her healthy and comfortable. Without treatment, high blood pressure can have serious side effects, including blindness, seizures, and cardiac damage.

Have your cat examined regularly by your veterinarian, as changes to the eyes or a heart murmur might warrant a blood pressure check.

Want to keep up with the world of cats? Subscribe to The Feline Purrspective!